Mexico City
Condesa wanderings, chef's tables on rainy nights, and a city that keeps teaching me something new about Mexican food.
Dispatches
Aug 2026I popped into the Secretaría de Educación Pública to see the Diego Rivera murals. I expected a handful. Instead, there were hundreds. A whole world through Diego's eyes.
Aug 2026What I loved most were the ordinary things. The objects of everyday life, carefully chosen and arranged by someone with an extraordinary eye for color, shape and style.
Aug 2026There are museums you visit for the art, and then there are museums where the building itself is half the story
Aug 2026We decided to spend a day wandering around Centro Histórico, with input, and thankfully a few deviations from our AI overlords.
Aug 2026
Aug 2026It wasn't just beautiful. It was everything I want in a dessert.
Aug 2026I love Coyoacán. It’s one of my favorite neighborhoods in Mexico City.
May 2026Sometimes the way I like to eat is a progression — a drink under the lanterns at Hotel San Fernando, tuna on the street at Koku, then a seat at the bar at Plonk.
Jan 2025It started in the ladies' room at Pujol, where I became completely obsessed with the hand soap. Is Xínú a little pretentious? Probably. I don't really mind.
Tables
Aug 2026The stained glass at the Gran Hotel is breathtaking. Mostly blue, it fills the enormous atrium with a prism of color.
Aug 2026You can see that they are striving, trying to get better, pushing themselves and caring deeply about what they put on the plate. There is something lovely about witnessing that kind of care.
Aug 2026Tucked up on the eighth floor is a coffee shop with an outdoor terrace facing directly across at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The view is incredible.
Aug 2026Something about this small, rather unassuming bakery pulled us in.
Aug 2026It was more bread than I have eaten in a year, but well worth every bite. And all free, I hope that is not tacky to mention— while Rosetta is not a bargain, all that free bread definitely is.
Aug 2026I have eaten a lot of great tacos in Mexico. A particular taquería might make a spectacular birria, or a certain stall might have a fantastic taco al pastor. But Trinidad does something harder. They make great tacos across the board.
Aug 2026Somewhere you want to linger for a drink, soak up the atmosphere and watch the room come alive.
Aug 2026It is one of those places that seems to have figured out how to be useful all day long.
Aug 2026I love food that brings different cultures together in unexpected ways.
Aug 2026One of the reasons I go to restaurants is to steal ideas. Not recipes exactly, but combinations — a flavour I hadn't thought of putting together, a technique, something that makes me come home and start thinking.
Aug 2026When Noah and I lived in Condesa, we went almost every week.
Jun 2026We turned up on a rainy night with no reservation and no expectations, and they walked us to the chef's table. That night we happened to get the best seat in the house.
I'm not even a big pasta eater, but the lemon ricotta ravioli got me before I'd taken a bite — candlelight, a record player, and pasta drying in the window.
May 2026There is something I really like about places that don't make a big fuss about themselves — the corn-and-masa offshoot of Pujol is one of those places.
May 2026Pretty red-tinged lanterns and little bistro tables on the street — where I'd start a Condesa evening, with a drink at Lounge Fernando.
May 2026Tables spilling onto the leafy street, and bluefin tuna from the Gulf of Baja. If you see it on a menu, order it.
May 2026They really know how to do sauces here. They aren't an afterthought. They are what make the dishes. Take a seat at the bar.
May 2026Enrique Olvera's two-Michelin-starred flagship, where we had my birthday lunch. Noah has been dying to try the mole madre forever. It did not disappoint.
