Gran Cantina Filomeno — Bubbles, Broth & a Bit of Old-School Magic

Filomena is the kind of place I love discovering in a city. Not necessarily where you go for the most extraordinary meal, but somewhere you want to linger for a drink, soak up the atmosphere and watch the room come alive.

We’ve popped in a couple of times, first for bubbles on my birthday and last night. After a quiet and elegant dinner elsewhere, we decided we wanted to end the night somewhere with a little more life. Filomena delivered.

I immediately fell for the upstairs front room, with its enormous circular burgundy velvet banquette, old-school waiters, bar tucked into the corner and the wonderful buzz of a proper cantina. It reminded me of a busy French brasserie, only unmistakably Mexican.

And the location is pretty hard to beat, sitting right on Plaza Río de Janeiro in Roma Norte.

The food isn't really why I'd send you here, although it is perfectly good, generous and filling. We had roast chicken and Brussels sprouts, but what I really loved was the little ritual that came with it: a small cup of broth and a shot of sherry. That broth was incredible.

And then there was the bathroom attendant. Such a surprising old school touch. A lovely woman was there with hand soap, a fresh towel and cucumber scented hand cream. It instantly transported me back to childhood and the attendants in the ladies' room at the Plaza Hotel in New York. I was mortified that I didn't have any cash to leave her a tip.

There was live music, the room was buzzing, and the whole place had that wonderful sense that the night could keep going. Sometimes you don't need another great meal. You just need somewhere lively enough to end the night properly.

About Gran Cantina Filomeno

• Address: Plaza Río de Janeiro 54, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, CDMX 06700.
• The setting: Filomeno occupies a beautiful Porfirian-era mansion overlooking Plaza Río de Janeiro. The house dates to the early 20th century and was designed by architect Daniel Ruiz Benítez.
• Quite a history: The building has been a private residence, a refuge for Spanish intellectuals, the early home of El Colegio de México, a girls' boarding school and, more recently, the home of Galería OMR.
• The chef: The kitchen is led by Chef Alfredo González Rivas, whose menu focuses on traditional Mexican cantina cooking with contemporary touches.
• The inspiration: Filomeno takes its name and its story from a novel by Mexican antique dealer and collector Daniel Liebsohn, set around the world of Porfirian-era Mexico.
• Who is Filomeno? The restaurant's namesake is a dashing charro from the novel. A large 1907 portrait of Filomeno hangs over the bar, although the painting's actual provenance and whether the historical Filomeno ever existed remain something of a mystery.
• A living museum: More than 150 period pieces and antiques fill the restaurant, including a spectacular Victorian pharmacy display case, antique furniture, portraits and original decorative details from the house.
• What to eat: The menu revisits Mexican cantina classics including sopes de tuétano, tacos de chamorro, lengua, mixiote and pescado a la sal.
• The vibe: There are several rooms, a terrace overlooking the plaza and live music, making it particularly suited to drinks and a lively evening.
• The park: Plaza Río de Janeiro was created in 1903 as part of the development of Colonia Roma. The plaza's centerpiece is a bronze replica of Michelangelo's David.