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A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City

A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City

What I particularly love is that this isn't simply a couple of ancient monuments sitting in a field. It was an entire city, carefully planned and built, with a profound understanding of architecture, astronomy, and engineering.

There are plenty of reasons to visit Mexico City, but if I were to recommend one day trip (1/2 day) that everyone should make time for, it would be a visit to Teotihuacán.

Noah and I on top of the Pyramid of the Moon. Teotihuacán.
Noah and I on top of the Pyramid of the Moon. Teotihuacán.

The ancient pyramids sit about 50 kilometres northeast of the city, roughly an hour to an hour and a half from Condesa (where I usually stay) by car, depending on traffic. And if you're wondering whether it's worth giving up a day in the city, the answer is absolutely yes.

Our group at the pyramids- a guide is in a build in photographer!
Our group at the pyramids- a guide is in a build in photographer!
A pic with Ivan.
A pic with Ivan.

I told my sister Sally she had to go when she was visiting Mexico City for a long weekend. It ended up being her favorite experience of the trip.

Teotihuacán is extraordinary. Long before the Aztecs, this was one of the largest cities in the ancient Americas. At its height, it was home to tens of thousands of people, with an impressive network of streets, residential compounds, temples, and ceremonial spaces.

The pyramids are fascinating. The Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon rise above an enormous ceremonial avenue known as the Avenue of the Dead. Walking along it, with the mountains forming a backdrop and these monumental structures stretching out in front of you, is really special. It is difficult to appreciate the scale of the place until you are actually standing there.

What I particularly love is that this isn't simply a couple of ancient monuments sitting in a field. It was an entire city, carefully planned and built, with a profound understanding of architecture, astronomy, and engineering.

Photograph from A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City

Find yourself a really good guide

We were lucky to have a wonderful guide. It was like making a new friend. Ivan grew up in Southern California but was deported to Mexico. He's now making a new life in Mexico City. He's bright, funny and full of personality, and clearly loves sharing the history of Mexico with visitors. He is also addicted to lucha libre, which gives you a little insight into his fun-loving, vibrant character!

One of the things he brought along was a fantastic book with transparent overlays showing how the pyramids and surrounding buildings would originally have looked. Rather than the weathered stone structures we see today, many of the buildings were once covered in vivid colors and elaborate painted designs. Seeing the original appearance superimposed over what remains was quite extraordinary. It really changed the way I looked at the site.

Photograph from A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City

Something else he showed us has really stayed with me.

As we walked around, he pointed out little holes and disturbed patches in the earth made by moles burrowing underground. Sometimes these little excavations bring tiny pieces of ancient pottery up to the surface. You're not allowed to collect or take any of these fragments, of course, but seeing them there in the soil was a wonderful reminder of just how much history is still buried beneath your feet.

There is something quite extraordinary about standing in a place where people lived thousands of years ago, knowing that so much of their everyday lives is still waiting to be uncovered.

It's another reason I'd really recommend having a knowledgeable guide. They bring the place to life in a way that simply wandering around with a guidebook cannot.

Ivan found a rare shaded spot for us as he talked history
Ivan found a rare shaded spot for us as he talked history

Teotihuacán is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and you can read more about it HERE.

A few things I'd recommend before you go

Get a driver.

I'd arrange a private driver to collect you from your hotel or apartment and take you out for the morning. It makes the whole experience so much easier. You don't have to worry about transport, can take your time, and have someone waiting when you're ready to return.

Our driver: Gabrielle

I also have to mention Gabrielle, our driver. He speaks perfect English, is an absolute lot of fun and is a great person to have showing you around Mexico City.

He can arrange a trip out to Teotihuacán and put you in touch with Ivan, but you can also ask him to take you on a little food adventure around the city. He knows the taco stands loved by locals, so you can spend an afternoon working your way around some of the best street food in CDMX.

He can also arrange boat trips at Xochimilco if you'd like to explore another side of the city.

Gabrielle: WhatsApp +52 55 6907 7414

Definitely get a guide.

I really wouldn't skip this. There is so much history, symbolism, and detail that you would otherwise miss. A good guide makes an enormous difference, and ours was a highlight of the day.

Ivan: WhatsApp +52 55 6907 7414

Eloy. Another guide recommended by my friend Sai, who also had a really good experience. WhatsApp +52 55 7013 7244

Go early.

The archaeological site opens at 8am, and I'd aim to arrive around then. It gets hot, there is very little shade, and you'll be doing quite a bit of walking. An early start also means fewer crowds and a much more enjoyable visit.

Take water, sunscreen and a hat.

You'll thank me later. There are vendors scattered around, but I wouldn't rely on them for everything. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, too, as you will be climbing steep stairs up the facade of the pyramids.

The steps are no joke- they’re very steep.
The steps are no joke- they’re very steep.
Photograph from A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City

Give yourself time.

This isn't somewhere to rush through in an hour. Allow at least three to four hours to explore the site properly.

One important note: the Pyramid of the Sun is currently closed to climbing, so plan to appreciate it from the ground.

Pair it with the Anthropology Museum

Another strong suggestion is to visit the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City either the day before or the day after. I have written a whole dispatch here about the museum and personal highlights.

It's one of the most wonderful museums in the city (world!), and its extraordinary collection of pre-Hispanic art and artefacts gives you a much deeper appreciation of the civilisations that shaped Mexico.

I think the two experiences work beautifully together. Spend a day learning about the people, their cultures, beliefs and achievements in the museum, then go and stand among the ancient city itself.

You'll come away with a much richer understanding of what you're looking at.

Website: https://www.mna.inah.gob.mx/

Opening hours:

  • Tuesday–Sunday: 9am–6pm
  • Closed Mondays.

Admission (2026):

  • International visitors: MX$210
  • Mexican nationals and foreign residents: MX$105
  • Free Sundays for Mexican nationals and foreign residents with qualifying documentation. INFORMACIÓN GENERAL+1

Location: Paseo de la Reforma and Calzada Gandhi, Chapultepec, Polanco.

What to see:

  1. Mexica (Aztec) Room: The famous Aztec Sun Stone and monumental sculpture.
  2. Maya Room: Jade masks, carved monuments and Maya artefacts.
  3. Olmec Room: The enormous carved colossal heads.
  4. Oaxaca Room: Zapotec and Mixtec civilisations.
  5. Teotihuacán collection: Objects and artefacts from the ancient city.

Allow 3 hours minimum, concentrate on the ground-floor archaeological galleries.

Photograph from A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City
Photograph from A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City
Photograph from A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City
Photograph from A Day at Teotihuacán: Why the Pyramids Are a Must When Visiting Mexico City